Daniel and I had a great session yesterday on the west side. JB, Shannon, and Paul Benco were out in the lineup with us, as were some other surfers. The crowd fizzled down to just me, Shannon, and Daniel around 10am. We had it to ourselves for a little over an hour until all three of us decided to go in. The conditions were still clean as we left, and the waves were still going off. It kind of sickened me that we had to leave, but I had some business back home that I needed to take care of. But what a great day for waves. One of the more memorable sessions I've had at the spot.
Down the beach, a sick little shallow reef grinder was doing its thing. It's looks better than it really was. Although, some days, this right can go off. On this day, though, the tide was wrong for it.
To the south was a nice little setup that looked like it had some potential. It was definitely rideable, but some of the sets that came in were kind of big, and it wouldn't have been fun getting washed up onto the shallow reef on the inside.
And here's local boy JB on a bowler with Paul Benco wishing he had a water camera.
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