Daniel and I got down to the west early. We checked a secret spot that was doing it's thing pretty well, but when the sets rolled in, it was suicide. Eight foot shallow water mutants would unload on the reef at times, so we decided that we'd check it some other time when the waves get smaller.
Earlier, we passed a spot on the way to the secret spot, and we spotted some keepers. So after the secret spot check, we headed back to the spot we saw. Sure enough, it was going off when we got there. Perfectly groomed waves, straight offshore winds from the north-northeast. It was kind of chilly, but that didn't stop us from paddling out.
As I sat in the lineup, it was the most crowded I had ever seen it; several Frenchies and Brazilians were waiting in line. Fifteen guys totaled the crowded takeoff zone, all playing the aggressive card as the sets rolled in. It wasn't too bad, though. Daniel and I had our fair share of gems. Check out the pictures. It was as good as it gets.
The secret, but for those who know, know.
Born-and-raised West Oahu local boy, Brian Pacheco, checking the secret spot as well. You know you're in the right place whenever you see him on the West Side.
Yeah, it was all-time.