The swell had been huge the day before, and it had crossed our mind that the swell still might've been too big for P-Point. But when we saw arrived in Haleiwa, we could tell that it was going to be good. However, on first inspection, we noticed that the current was running like hell toward the channel. The negative tide created a powerful current over the reef, making for a lumpy and bumpy face.
Two surfers were on it before we got out. When we got out to the lineup, one of the surfers told us that with the tide coming up, the waves should get better. Sure enough, as the tide filled in and the trades picked up to groom the face of the wave perfectly, it not only got better, it got to be some of the best waves I've seen at inside Pua'ena in a long, long time. What's even better is that the two surfers went in.
Daniel and I had it to ourselves for a good half hour until a longboarder and his daughter came out. For some reason they were catching the lefts, and they weren't getting in the way of the rights. Daniel and I had a blast, again, swapping waves like the last session we had at Mokuleia two days before. An hour passed and the lineup got a tad more crowded, but nothing extreme. Satisfied with what we caught, we went in. Not bad for a day at the point; I haven't surfed it since last season.
This is my first time i visit here and I found so many interesting stuff in your blog especially it's discussion, thank you. Download video without a watermark on a PC, iOS or Android at tiktok downloader
ReplyDelete