Pua's Anus Point...

Daniel and I were set on one spot this morning. There was no debate as to where we were going to surf, so we headed straight for Pua'ena Point in Haleiwa.

The swell had been huge the day before, and it had crossed our mind that the swell still might've been too big for P-Point. But when we saw arrived in Haleiwa, we could tell that it was going to be good. However, on first inspection, we noticed that the current was running like hell toward the channel. The negative tide created a powerful current over the reef, making for a lumpy and bumpy face.

Two surfers were on it before we got out. When we got out to the lineup, one of the surfers told us that with the tide coming up, the waves should get better. Sure enough, as the tide filled in and the trades picked up to groom the face of the wave perfectly, it not only got better, it got to be some of the best waves I've seen at inside Pua'ena in a long, long time. What's even better is that the two surfers went in.

Daniel and I had it to ourselves for a good half hour until a longboarder and his daughter came out. For some reason they were catching the lefts, and they weren't getting in the way of the rights. Daniel and I had a blast, again, swapping waves like the last session we had at Mokuleia two days before. An hour passed and the lineup got a tad more crowded, but nothing extreme. Satisfied with what we caught, we went in. Not bad for a day at the point; I haven't surfed it since last season.

 

  

North Shore still has secrets...

Close interval swell and strong trades have kept the waves on the North Shore mediocre at best.  Yesterday was interesting, though.  Daniel and I checked Log Cabins in the morning, and it was really good, and really heavy.  I was willing to take some beatings, but Daniel wasn't up for it because his shoulder was kind of bothering him from a recent session at Pipe.  So, we decided to check out a spot my friend Rio told us about.

Getting to the spot was sort of a mini adventure.  To get to the spot we had to walk about half a mile after parking our car at a high theft area.  We packed up all our belongings in our backpacks and starting walking.  When we got to the spot it didn't look good at all.  The potential was there, but the swell direction was too north.  The wind and tide was cooperating, but that damn swell direction didn't make for an epic surf session.  We decided to paddle out anyway.

The waves were 1-2 feet, super shallow, and actually a lot better than it looked from shore.  There were some waves that would stand up and wedge for us to gain some speed, and I even boosted a little invert on the inside and caught a small barrel.  The way the break is setup is pretty sick.  The paddle out is not far at all, and the left follows a shallow and exposed reef shelf until petering out on a sandbar.  We'll have to check it out on a solid 6 foot west-northwest swell; I bet it gets really good.

You'll probably look at the pictures and say to yourself, "Log Cabins looked better."  Well, it was, but I don't regret being at the spot we ended up surfing.  It was fun, and for the 2 hours we were there, not one person was around.  I guess the North Shore still has "secret" spots.  You just have to know where to look.

 

 Logs.

The half mile walk to the spot we surfed after ditching Log Cabins.

The spot has potential, but today wasn't that great.  Maybe next time.