Showing posts with label swell. Show all posts
Showing posts with label swell. Show all posts

Thursday, January 28, 2010

Pua's Anus Point...

Daniel and I were set on one spot this morning. There was no debate as to where we were going to surf, so we headed straight for Pua'ena Point in Haleiwa.

The swell had been huge the day before, and it had crossed our mind that the swell still might've been too big for P-Point. But when we saw arrived in Haleiwa, we could tell that it was going to be good. However, on first inspection, we noticed that the current was running like hell toward the channel. The negative tide created a powerful current over the reef, making for a lumpy and bumpy face.

Two surfers were on it before we got out. When we got out to the lineup, one of the surfers told us that with the tide coming up, the waves should get better. Sure enough, as the tide filled in and the trades picked up to groom the face of the wave perfectly, it not only got better, it got to be some of the best waves I've seen at inside Pua'ena in a long, long time. What's even better is that the two surfers went in.

Daniel and I had it to ourselves for a good half hour until a longboarder and his daughter came out. For some reason they were catching the lefts, and they weren't getting in the way of the rights. Daniel and I had a blast, again, swapping waves like the last session we had at Mokuleia two days before. An hour passed and the lineup got a tad more crowded, but nothing extreme. Satisfied with what we caught, we went in. Not bad for a day at the point; I haven't surfed it since last season.

 

  




Monday, January 18, 2010

West has been best...

Holy moly! Guess what? I've decided to blast a new blog out of my poopshoot that will be dedicated to all the days I've been burfing! Yay! And what better way to start it off with a post about the west side goodies. Yup, the waves have been pumping non-stop this winter, and I have a good feeling it ain't over yet. With all the gigantic waves up north, I had to check west side, and I checked it religiously for a good two weeks. The two week checks were worth it because I burfed some of the best waves I have ever seen on that side of the island. Despite the shanties along indigent landscapes, the smell of trash and doodoo, and the occasional moke call-out, I managed to snap some shots to engrave what I believe has been the best winter on the west side since I've been alive. Yeah, a lot of old fogies can tell me otherwise, but these pics will do some justice.