Shanoah and I went for a morning session at a spot down at Mokuleia today. The winds were light, the sun was out, and the waves were pumping. I got a text from my friend, Ian telling me that the spot wasn't good at all. I had a feeling it was going to be good, so I trusted my instincts and convinced Shanoah to check it out instead of heading towards Sunset Beach. Sure enough, when we arrived at the spot, it was on: 3-5 feet, doubling up, and ramping! The only problem was that there was a river-rapid current. The negative low tide and the size of the swell was pulling water out to sea right at the takeoff zone. But that didn't stop us from paddling out. The waves were pretty consistent: sets came in every 2-3 minutes. The tide made for a super shallow inside bowl to ramp that had us pretty hesitant to hit the lip on the inside. But with the strong out-to-sea current, paddling back out was a cinch. Shanoah caught a few bombs from the outside shelf; I managed to do the same, but I also caught a few mean ones on the inside. When the bombs came in, the wave sucked up on the shelf with no mercy and created a massive double (sometimes triple) up. On the inside, the waves were more pronounced and punchy. For an hour we had it all to ourselves. After that hour, two surfers and a bodyboarder paddled out, now with more onshore wind texture, making the wave a little crumbly but still manageable. Ten minutes after the surfers and bodyboarders joined us, we headed in to go to work. Another great session in this unbelievable 2009/2010 winter season on Oahu. Lucky we live Hawaii.
