Ultimate west coast perfection...

For some reason, the long period west-northwest swell that hit this past week favored some spots on the west side.  Words cannot explain how good it was: super consistent, 2-4 feet, with some 5's and 6's on the outside, straight offshore winds, and bowling like a mutha!

Daniel and I got down to the west early.  We checked a secret spot that was doing it's thing pretty well, but when the sets rolled in, it was suicide.  Eight foot shallow water mutants would unload on the reef at times, so we decided that we'd check it some other time when the waves get smaller.

Earlier, we passed a spot on the way to the secret spot, and we spotted some keepers.  So after the secret spot check, we headed back to the spot we saw.  Sure enough, it was going off when we got there.  Perfectly groomed waves, straight offshore winds from the north-northeast.  It was kind of chilly, but that didn't stop us from paddling out.

As I sat in the lineup, it was the most crowded I had ever seen it; several Frenchies and Brazilians were waiting in line.  Fifteen guys totaled the crowded takeoff zone, all playing the aggressive card as the sets rolled in.  It wasn't too bad, though.  Daniel and I had our fair share of gems.  Check out the pictures.  It was as good as it gets.

 

The secret, but for those who know, know.

 

Born-and-raised West Oahu local boy, Brian Pacheco, checking the secret spot as well.  You know you're in the right place whenever you see him on the West Side.

 

The playground.

 

Yeah, it was all-time.

West side emptiness...

Daniel and I checked the west side yesterday and caught some really fun waves.  The winds were swirling every which way when we first got there, but it ended up blowing straight offshore about an hour before we ended our session.  Despite the weird winds, the waves were still really, really fun.  No one was out either, something you can always count on out west.  We got a bunch of barrels and some wedgy rights for a couple hours and went in when we saw a horde of surfers walking on the beach to paddle out.  Another fun winter day in paradise.

 

A little texture from the wind when we first got there, but it was still barreling.

This shot was taken after we surfed it.  The surfers are on the sand, about to score it with no one out.

West has been best...

Holy moly! Guess what? I've decided to blast a new blog out of my poopshoot that will be dedicated to all the days I've been burfing! Yay! And what better way to start it off with a post about the west side goodies. Yup, the waves have been pumping non-stop this winter, and I have a good feeling it ain't over yet. With all the gigantic waves up north, I had to check west side, and I checked it religiously for a good two weeks. The two week checks were worth it because I burfed some of the best waves I have ever seen on that side of the island. Despite the shanties along indigent landscapes, the smell of trash and doodoo, and the occasional moke call-out, I managed to snap some shots to engrave what I believe has been the best winter on the west side since I've been alive. Yeah, a lot of old fogies can tell me otherwise, but these pics will do some justice.