West sesh...

Yesterday, Daniel and I got off to an relatively late start to check the waves.  The forecast called for obvious offshores, a negative low just after noon, and a slowly dropping swell veering more to the north.  The day ended up being more memorable than I had anticipated.  The waves were perfect, and some spots were so good, in fact, that all I did was take shots with my camera.  I've grown addictive to lineup shots.

The 1st spot we checked was going off.  No one was out, and the size was perfect.  I managed to get a few shots until we decided to leave Spot #1 and head up the coast to Spot #2.

Spot #2 had some great moments.  Again, no one was out, but a few guys in the distance looked ready to paddle out for a fun session.  We decided to backtrack to see if some spots that we overlooked had some potential.

Sure enough, Spot #3 was really doing its thing.  Perfect, shallow, 3-5 foot heavers just waiting for someone to pull in and get shacked.  There were some gnarly benders that weren't rideable, but it wasn't anything that couldn't be dodged.  Although, with that in mind, we headed back to Spot #1.  (What a waste of time!)

Back at Spot #1, we could still see that the waves were good with nobody out.  On the sand, ready to paddle out, were two guys we knew, Jimmy and Malu.

"Shoulda just went out here in the first place," Daniel said.

We suited up as fast as we could and headed out to the two-man lineup in perfect 2-4 foot drainers.  I caught five unreal waves and decided to go in.  I spotted a few spots up the coast within walking distance; I really wanted to get some shots.

The pictures I took came out really nice.  I'm so happy to have shot epic pictures of the coastline I grew up surfing as a child with my dad.  Be it summer or winter, the west side never disappoints.

 

  

  

  

West has been best...

Holy moly! Guess what? I've decided to blast a new blog out of my poopshoot that will be dedicated to all the days I've been burfing! Yay! And what better way to start it off with a post about the west side goodies. Yup, the waves have been pumping non-stop this winter, and I have a good feeling it ain't over yet. With all the gigantic waves up north, I had to check west side, and I checked it religiously for a good two weeks. The two week checks were worth it because I burfed some of the best waves I have ever seen on that side of the island. Despite the shanties along indigent landscapes, the smell of trash and doodoo, and the occasional moke call-out, I managed to snap some shots to engrave what I believe has been the best winter on the west side since I've been alive. Yeah, a lot of old fogies can tell me otherwise, but these pics will do some justice.