Monday, January 25, 2010

3 spots in 4 hours...

Today was amazing.  Daniel and I checked Log Cabins early in the morning and the rights were roping.  2-4 feet and pretty damn perfect.  I paddled out, snagged a few, then came back in.  We got in the car, headed to Five-O's to see if it was good enough, but it wasn't, so we went to Ehukai.  Again, firing!  The sandbar was the best I seen it this winter.  Daniel headed out to Ehukai, and I chanced OTW for a little while.  OTW was really good, and kinda heavy.  I caught some good waves at first until I got a bomb right on the head.  Fricken wave made me paddle to Ehukai.  So I burfed Ehukai sandbar for the remainder of the session, and good grief was it good.  There was an unreal left breaking in front of the lifeguard tower.  I caught so many waves that I lost count.  So yeah, today was mean.  The stretch from Log Cabins to Rocky Point was a full on skatepark.  I surfed 3 spots in 4 hours.  Go figure.

Logs at 7:30am.

Rockpiles a-framing and empty.

The beach park.

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