Friday, January 22, 2010

North Shore still has secrets...

Close interval swell and strong trades have kept the waves on the North Shore mediocre at best.  Yesterday was interesting, though.  Daniel and I checked Log Cabins in the morning, and it was really good, and really heavy.  I was willing to take some beatings, but Daniel wasn't up for it because his shoulder was kind of bothering him from a recent session at Pipe.  So, we decided to check out a spot my friend Rio told us about.

Getting to the spot was sort of a mini adventure.  To get to the spot we had to walk about half a mile after parking our car at a high theft area.  We packed up all our belongings in our backpacks and starting walking.  When we got to the spot it didn't look good at all.  The potential was there, but the swell direction was too north.  The wind and tide was cooperating, but that damn swell direction didn't make for an epic surf session.  We decided to paddle out anyway.

The waves were 1-2 feet, super shallow, and actually a lot better than it looked from shore.  There were some waves that would stand up and wedge for us to gain some speed, and I even boosted a little invert on the inside and caught a small barrel.  The way the break is setup is pretty sick.  The paddle out is not far at all, and the left follows a shallow and exposed reef shelf until petering out on a sandbar.  We'll have to check it out on a solid 6 foot west-northwest swell; I bet it gets really good.

You'll probably look at the pictures and say to yourself, "Log Cabins looked better."  Well, it was, but I don't regret being at the spot we ended up surfing.  It was fun, and for the 2 hours we were there, not one person was around.  I guess the North Shore still has "secret" spots.  You just have to know where to look.


The half mile walk to the spot we surfed after ditching Log Cabins.

The spot has potential, but today wasn't that great.  Maybe next time.

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